Embarking on an Expedition through the Soul of the Himalayas

Nepal, a land of captivating beauty, rich culture, and untamed adventures, offers an unparalleled experience for those who venture into its high mountain ranges. The diverse landscapes and ethnic diversity that stretch from lush jungles to towering snow-capped peaks make every journey a unique exploration. One such adventure is traversing Nepal’s Great Himalayan Trail, with the Lumba Sumba Pass serving as one of its most exhilarating crossings. But what makes a trek across one of Nepal’s many passes truly unforgettable?

Journey to Nepal’s Eastern Frontier

Our adventure began with a flight into Bhadrapur, situated in the steamy Terai region of southeastern Nepal. Here, the vibrant local culture is influenced by a mix of Nepali and Hindi, and the bustling markets brim with exotic fruits and spices. The heat and humidity were intense, but the promise of what lay ahead was enough to keep spirits high.

From Bhadrapur, we boarded a jeep and wound our way through narrow, rugged roads. The path zigzagged up to 2000 meters, then descended into steep river valleys, offering spectacular views of the hills. After hours of traveling, we arrived in Ilam, a hidden gem of Nepal. Known to locals but relatively unknown to Western tourists, Ilam is a beautiful hill station renowned for its tea plantations. Here, we were welcomed by the aroma of freshly brewed tea and the chance to explore the scenic surroundings. If you’re lucky, you may even catch the local carnival, which adds a touch of festivity to the otherwise serene atmosphere.

Trekking the Kanchenjunga and Makalu Region

From Ilam, we continued our journey towards Taplejung, the starting point of our trek through the Kanchenjunga to Makalu Barun region. This new route connecting Nepal’s highest trekking areas is an ambitious venture that takes you from the eastern end of the Himalayas towards the Everest region.

The trek itself was a cultural mosaic, passing through villages populated by Limbu, Sherpa, Tibetan, and Rai people. The lower hills were lush with cardamom farms, while higher altitudes revealed the traditional lifestyles of Sherpa and Tibetan communities. The trails were challenging, with steep ascents, rocky terrains, and occasional landslides that added to the sense of adventure.

One of the highlights of this portion of the trek was reaching Pang Pema, the North Kanchenjunga Base Camp. Surrounded by towering peaks, this remote spot provided breathtaking views and a deep sense of accomplishment. We also encountered the aftermath of Nepal’s 2015 earthquakes during our journey. In one small Sherpa village, the ground trembled beneath us, and we narrowly avoided a rockfall as the trail shook violently. Although the tremors were unsettling, we were fortunate to remain safe while witnessing the resilience of the Nepalese people.

The Hidden Beauty of Olangchun Gola

A truly unforgettable experience came in the form of Olangchun Gola, a remote Tibetan village nestled in the shadow of the Kanchenjunga massif. Here, the villagers continue to weave traditional carpets made from hand-spun sheep wool. We were treated to a cultural immersion, watching the locals engage in their Buddhist religious practices and enjoying the unique flavor of tongba, a traditional fermented millet beer. The remote setting, coupled with the hospitality of the villagers, made this stop a memorable one.

Crossing the Lumba Sumba Pass

Perhaps the most awe-inspiring portion of our journey was crossing the Lumba Sumba Pass, which sits at a dizzying height of 5160 meters. The pass offers one of the most spectacular panoramic views in the entire Himalayas, with the towering peaks of Kanchenjunga to the west and Makalu to the east. These are the third and fifth highest mountains in the world, and standing at the pass, surrounded by such majesty, is an experience that will stay with you forever.

The trek to the high camp was a challenge in itself, as we trekked through deep snowfields under the midday sun. The porters, carrying our camping gear, led the way through the pristine snow, forging a trail through the snow-covered terrain. As we neared the pass, the excitement was palpable. The Lumba Sumba Pass is not a single pass but rather a series of two peaks, the Lumba La and Sumba La, connected by a narrow and precarious trail.

We reached the top at dawn, and the first rays of sunlight illuminated the snow-covered landscape in a breathtaking display of color. The descent was equally thrilling as we glissaded down the snowfields, sliding down the slopes with the thrill of adventure. This exciting descent led us into the Makalu Barun region, where the beauty of the wilderness continued to unfold.

The Makalu Barun Region: A Remote Haven

The Makalu Barun region is one of the most isolated and unspoiled areas of Nepal. It is home to the Arun and Tamor rivers, two massive river systems that flow from the high Himalayan glaciers. Over centuries, these rivers have carved deep gorges and fertile valleys where villages cling to the hillsides, often accessible only by narrow, steep trails.

As we continued our journey, the terrain became increasingly rugged. We trekked on narrow stone steps that seemed to cling to the steep mountainsides, crossed precarious bridges made from tree trunks, and navigated the thick mud and slippery paths that tested our endurance. The communities in the region are tight-knit, and the villages we passed through offered a fascinating insight into the daily lives of the people who call this harsh terrain home.

At one of the larger villages, we were caught in the aftermath of another earthquake. The tremors were felt throughout the region, but we remained safe, and the villagers’ calmness in the face of adversity was a testament to their resilience.

Completing the Journey: Reflections on Nepal

As we neared the end of our trek, we passed through lush fields of cardamom and arrived at the final stretch of our month-long journey. The eastern Great Himalayan Trail, though remote and challenging, offered some of the most incredible views and cultural experiences imaginable.

Nepal’s Great Himalayan Trail is not for the faint of heart, but it is a journey that offers unparalleled adventure, cultural immersion, and a connection to one of the most beautiful regions on Earth. The memories of the majestic peaks, remote villages, and unforgettable experiences will stay with you long after you’ve left the mountains behind.

This journey through Nepal’s eastern Himalayan ranges is more than just a trek; it’s a testament to the resilience, beauty, and rich culture of this remarkable country. Whether you’re scaling high passes, crossing snowfields, or visiting remote villages, Nepal offers an adventure that will leave a lasting mark on your soul.